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Dixon ZTR Parts

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Dixon Z-Drive Transaxle Running Adjustment Procedure

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Transaxle Removal
Estimated Time Required: 25 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 7/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" combination wrench
(1) 3/4" combination wrench
(1) 11/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" socket
(1) 12" socket drive extension
(1) ratchet drive
(1) shop hammer
(1) mechanical punch (drift)
(1) needle nose pliers or spring tool

NOTE: A lift or work table is not required but very helpful.

DISCONNECT THE GROUND WIRE FROM BATTERY!

 


Figure 10

1. Using a 1/2" socket, 12" extension and ratchet, loosen the drive belt keeper located to the left of the transaxle.
 


Figure 11

2. Push/pull the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt.

NOTE: The 42" deck has two idler pulley's.  Only the top pulley must be moved.

   


Figure 12

3. Remove the drive belt from the transaxle drive pulley.
     


Figure 13

4. Using a 9/16" socket, 12" extension and ratchet, remove four bolts from underside of mower which hold the transaxle in place.

NOTE: The belt tensioning idler spring partially covers bolt #2 and must be pushed to one side in order to remove the bolt.

   


Figure 14

5. Remove the seat assembly by doing the following.
     
  a. Using a 1/2" wrench, remove the seat rod nut located on the right (left) side of the
     mower.
     
  NOTE: The seat rod nut may have been installed on the left side of the machine.
     


Figure 15

  b. Disconnect the seat switch.
     
  NOTE: Use special care during reassembly to insure that the connection plug is placed between the seat base and the seat frame.  This prevents the cable from being pinched or caught up in the moving parts of the transaxle.
     


Figure 16

  c. Remove the seat rod by pulling it toward the right (left) side of the seat.
     
  d. Remove the seat
     
  NOTE:  The seat rod may have been installed from right to left.
     


Figure 17

6. Using needle nosed pliers, disconnect the brake link from the right side of the transaxle.

NOTE:  On models built prior to July 17, 1996, remove the clips from both the left and right side of the brake shaft.  See Figure 19 for the location of the two clips.

     


Figure 18

  Location of roll pins on a three piece brake shaft.
     


Figure 19

  Location of roll pins and clips on one piece brake shafts.

NOTE: The one piece brake shaft was used on mowers built prior to 17 July 1996 and is a solid shaft rather than a tube as is used on later applications.

   


Figure 20

  Location of roll pin on right side (1 of 4) on units built prior to 17 July, 1996.
     


Figure 21

  Location of roll pin on left side (1 of 4) on units built prior to 17 July 1996.
     


Figure 22

7. Using a shop hammer and mechanics punch (drift), drive the roll pins out of the cross shaft.
     

8. If the mower has a one piece shaft and slide the cross shaft to the left side of the chassis and allow it to drop downward out of the way.
     


Figure 24

  NOTE: Alternate location for brake shaft placement.  Use which ever works best for your application.
     
  NOTE: Field experience has shown that it is not necessary to remove the fenders on models built prior to 17 July 1996, although earlier instructions suggested their removal.
     


Figure 25

9. Using a 9/16" socket and ratchet, disconnect the ball joints from the transaxle (ball joints will stay attached to the drive levers in the chassis).
     

Figure 26
10. Push the transaxle toward the front of the chassis and remove the primary chains from the drive sprockets.
     


Figure 26

11. Lift the transaxle out of the chassis.
     


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